Significant technological developments

Surfing Gear + Equipment

Surfing gear and equipment has expanded dramatically over the past 50 years. Some examples of this are Wax. Wax was introduced to add a high-traction layer on the surfboard to create friction between the surfers feet and board. This layer helps the rider stay on the board, wax needs to be re-applied as the wax can gradually wash away over time.

Some clothing that has become an icon for surfing is board shorts, rash vests and wet suits. Rash vests are shirts that help prevent scrapes, injuries and also offer protection from the sun. Wet suits were designed to allow surfers to stay warm in colder water. This meant that surfing could become an all year round sport, increasing the training.

Another significant piece of equipment is the leash. This connects to the board and is attached to the surfers ankle to help the from losing the board while surfing.

Surfing Conditions + Techniques

Over time, surfers have discovered new technologies which have indirectly improved their techniques. The Conditions of the waves and location of where you surf can determine and enhance your ability to surf. Hawaii is renowned for the worlds biggest waves, this destination can dictate your surfing career. Many have tried to artificially reconstruct waves by using machines. However these do not exactly replicate real waves, this means to surf you need to be in the right location.

One technique which has improved with these technologies is the paddling out to the surf. With the lighter boards and wetsuits we have increased the efficiency of surfers. This means that the surfers are not so tired from paddling out with a heavy board, or aren’t as cold when training in the winter season.

Technology

The Go Pro camera has increased high-skilled surfers ability to improve their performance. The Go Pro enables the surfer to film themselves surfing, then to watch it back. This helps their coach to identify weaknesses in their surf, as they’re not out there with them.

Surfboard

One way surfing has technologically developed is the surf board. Surfing has not changed much in the way of the surfer’s riding technique, but more so in the equipment used. The surfboard design has changed over time, by incorporating each era’s materials, ideas and more recently technology. Previously to the 20th century, the surfboard design was relatively natural and in a raw state. Surfboards were made out of thick, solid wood and weighed more than the surfer. As they were made out of wood, they would be sanded to keep them as smooth and water resistant as possible. Today, they’re made of water-resistant, light fiberglass, polymers and other synthetic chemicals. However a lot has evolved during this time.

Pre 1950’s

During this period of time surfboards were still made out of wood, particularly the redwood trees. Although there was a problem with this material as is wasn’t particularly waterproof. The longer the board spent in the water, the heavier it became and was found to be difficult to control the board. Designers eventually figured out that more aerodynamic surfing came with a board that was light and water repellent

Wooden Long Boards, pre 1950’s.

Women with wooden surfboards, pre 1950’s.

1950s and 1960s

One lasting development in the surfboard design occurred during this era, which was the use of fiberglass and polyurethane foam. The board was much lighter now, making boards easier to control. Foam was a selling point as the light material allowed shaping and cutting to be more efficient. This meant hardwoods were being replaced. Another contributing development into surfing today is the length of the board. it was found that long boards were difficult to maneuver over waves and during the 1960’s short boards were introduced. Short boards gave the surfer more leniency to perform tricks on the waves. These improvements are still being used in the surfing industry today.

1970s and 1980s

One of the most simple alteration was the leg rope. The leg rope was attached to the board as well as the surfers ankle. This was designed for when the surfer was wiped out, they wouldn’t need to chase the board down or wait for it. An Australian Surfer Simon Anderson created the three-fin surfboard. This design was to provide stability and friction while surfing waves.

1990s

One of the more recent improvements was the rail curve. The rail curve is the shape of the underside of the board, different rail curves differentiate depending on the surfers ability. For example, a straight-cu rail allows for faster turning, a softer, curved rail slows down the turns and is better for beginners. The underside shape can also determine and redirect water flow. There are now many different styles of surfboards, for example the fish board, mini malibu, longboard and short board.

Surfing Videos

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8COaMKbNrX0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TRtmBS7JSz0

Biomechanics Principles

Balance + Stability

Balance in involves the centre of mass and base of support. In terms of surfing the centre of mass is the mid point of your body and base of support is the area of contact underneath the surfboard. Usually, the bigger or wider your base of support is the more stable you become, this makes it easier to balance. Therefore, bigger boards are easier to ride. Also, you want the centre of mass and base support to be close to achieve a sturdy position when surfing waves. Having more control of your body and the board can also help to maneuver on the waves.

In relation to the technological developments in surfing, the design of the surfboard has increased surfers ability to balance and remain stable. This was done through creating friction on the top of the surfboard. Another important feature of the surfboard is the shape, having a point at the end allows the board to cut through the waves, rather than nose diving forwards.

Factors that affect stability are body mass, friction between the body and the surface or surfaces contacted, base of support and position of the centre of gravity.

Friction

To increase stability of the body, it is necessary to increase friction between the body and surface it is in contact with. In surfing, this is achieved by waxing their board and therefore increases stability. The development of wax used in surfing has created greater friction, therefore greater stability for the surfer.

However it is important to reduce friction on the bottom of the board. This is to generate less friction between the water and board allowing more maneuverability.

Inertia

The biomechanics law of inertia is, an object will remain in a state of rest or constant motion unless acted upon by an external force. The more mass an object contains, a greater force is required to change the state of motion. In relation to surfing, the force of the water pushing against the bottom of the board as you turn. The force of water underneath the board and against the fins, counteracts the force of inertia, this prevents you flying over the board as it surfs along the wave. Different board shapes and fins will also help you train to balance against inertia. Boards with single and twin fins allow the force of inertia to affect your movement in turns.

Factors contributing to technological developments

Many of these technological developments have occurred due to help high-skilled surfers improve their performance and safety precautions.

Factors that could have contributed to these developments could have been age, ability, weight, safety and conditions of waves. For example, the surfboard rail curve was designed for more skilled surfers to be able to maneuver faster and in more technical ways.

Another feature which evolved for two reasons was the leash. Firstly the leash provides a connection between the surfer and the board, so when getting wiped out you don’t loose your board in the surf. However the leash was also created so it wouldn’t injure anyone else out in the surf while floating around.

Improved performance + participation

The technological developments which have evolved over time has lead to improved performance and participation. Previously to these advancements surfing was sport of fun and not much technique, with little exposure to the average person. Nowadays we have technology and biomechanic principles which allow us to increase our surfing ability. Also the media has increased people’s knowledge of surfing to become an international sport.

For example, prior to the 1950’s and 1960’s the surfboard design only allowed surfers to just ride the waves. After the fiberglass material was brought in, people started to realise the techniques and moves that could be done on a wave. This was revolutionary, as now in competitions you get judged on the techniques you can perform on a wave.

Another example of technological advancements which have improved performance and participation is the camera technology, such as the Go Pro. This device has dramatically increased participation in surfing, as being able to film yourself allows many people (not just athletes) to surf. For example, people will now go surfing for film or photography purposes. However the main development of the Go Pro has altered the way surfers train, therefore increasing their performance.

Additionally, as beaches are very accessible these days many non-surfers still have the opportunity to surf. This increased as public transport is more common and hiring a surf board or getting some lessons is readily available.